Tag: oil

Wines of Calabria: the trace of ancient traditions

06.02.2019

There is an entire literature about CIRÒ wine. This wine is well mentioned into J. Robinson (“The Oxford Companion to Wine”, Third Edition pg 122-123 Oxford University Press 2006 ISBN 0-19-860990-6), M. Ewing-Mulligan & E. McCarthy (Italian Wines for Dummies pg 226-231 Hungry Minds 2001), M. Toussaint-Samat (“A History of Food” pg 263 Wiley-Blackwell 1994),  H. Johnson Vintage (The Story of Wine pg 64 Simon and Schuster 1989).

This internationally recognized wine is the core of wines production in Calabria, a real must, a landmark for lovers of authentic Mediterranean food. This product, especially, occupies one of the top places in Local Exports, together with olive oil and bergamot.

Overall, Cirò is culture, gastronomy, cuisine and the real witness or trace of ancient traditions of winemaking.

In ancient times, particularly, Pliny the Elder writings are one the first historical trace of wine production in the region of Calabria, he testified that during the 1st century AD Calabrian wine were just in Romans listings of quality Italian wines.

Even if slowly, Calabria developed a vibrant wine industry with only the red wines of Cirò, while many of its wonderful wines have a regional and national distribution.

Such Cirò wine taste garnered much international attention, and today Calabrian wines are mostly produced to high alcohol levels and sold to co-operatives who transfer the wines to the northern Italian wine regions, to use them as blending component.

With regard to the general Calabrian production, at this moment, over 90% of the region’s wine production is red wine, with a large portion made from the Gaglioppo grape. Calabria has 12 “Denominazione di origine controllata” (DOC) regions but only 4% of the yearly production is classified as DOC wine.

Given that the winters are mild in all the region, with average temperatures around 10°C, rarely dropping below 5°C, the climate near the coast is very hot and dry throughout most of the year, then the majority of the region’s wine production takes place in the central areas of the eastern and western coastlines.

  1. The starring of wine production in Calabria is, as said, certainly CIRÒ. Its DOC region is located in the eastern foothills of the La Sila region and extends to the Ionian coast. The mark of Cirò classico appears on red wines, therefore Red Cirò is typically very tannic and full bodied with strong fruit presences and subject to 3–4 years vintage. It is mainly produced in the municipalities of Cirò and Cirò Marina (in the province of Crotone), where the soil is predominantly calcareous marl with some clay and sand deposits. Anyway, such wine is a blend of grapes. In fact, Cirò contains at least 95% of the Gaglioppo grape and up to 5% of the white Greco bianco and Trebbiano grapes permitted. Cirò Rosés and Cirò white wines contain from at least 90% Greco bianco up to 10% Trebbiano. In the other Provinces of Calabria, you can find 11 DOC regions. We can list the following, according to our experience:
  2. The wine of Isola di Capo Rizzuto is the DOC of SANT’ANNA, produced in a limited area located south of commune of Melissa. This wine is dry red and rosé, coming from a blend of Gaglioppo, Nocera, Nerello Mascalese, and up to 35% of added Malvasia and Greco bianco.
  3. Jumping to the North of Calabria, the POLLINO DOC is produced in the nearby mountain of higher chain of mountains of Pollino, that forms part of the Apennines. Near the border with Basilicata, that zone produces pale, cherry red wines, subject to 2–3 years of vintage. The wines blend is made primarily with Gaglioppo and Greco nero, with up to 20% of white grape varieties of various provenience.
  4. SAN VITO DI LUZZI is the DOC of San Vito, a short municipality where red and rosé wines are produced with Gaglioppo, Malvasia nera, Greco nero and Sangiovese, and up to 40% of other local white wine varieties.
  5. The SAVUTO DOC comes from the south of the Donnici region, in mountainous terrain that stretches to the coast. The blend of grapes is composed by Gaglioppo, Greco nero, Nerello Cappuccio, Magliocco, Sangiovese and up to 25% of the white wine grapes Malvasia bianca and Pecorello.
  6. The SCAVIGNA DOC comes from the south of Savuto area, in the western coast of Calabria, where are produced dry red and rosé wines. The mixture of grapes results from at least 60% Gaglioppo and Nerello Cappuccio, plus other local red wine varieties, while the white wines come from Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Greco bianco and Malvasia bianca.
  7. A well known trademark is VERBICARO. This DOC is located inside Verbicaro region, in the Pollino foothills, west of Pollino DOC region, until Tyrrhenian coast. The typical blend is made from Gaglioppo and Greco nero with a minimal percentage of white wine grapes Greco bianco, Malvasia bianca and Vernaccia Bianca.
  8. The very famous DOC of GRECO DI BIANCO is a white wine that have alcohol contents of at least 17%. This authentic wine-liquor comes from grapes partially dried prior to pressing and fermentation. The unique visual appearance of Greco di Bianco is a deep amber color, mixed to citrus aromas and herbs scents.
  9. A growing wine is BIVONGI. This DOC of Bivongi land is new and produces red and rosé wines, blended from Gaglioppo, Greco nero, Nocera and Castiglione, while few are the white dry wines made of Greco bianco, Guardavalle, Mantonico bianco, Malvasia bianca and Ansonica.
  10. The production of DONNICI DOC is a red wine, composed of Gaglioppo, Greco nero and Mantonico nero. Its region is the province in the south of Cosenza, nearby La Sila plateau.
  11. The region of LAMEZIA wine produces red and rosé DOC wines. The blend comes from Gaglioppo, Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Greco nero, Magliocco and Marsigliana, while the white wines result from Greco bianco, Malvasia bianca and Trebbiano. The zone of these wines is on the very warm plains of the Gulf of Sant’Eufemia, in front of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
  12. A special rival of Cirò is the MELISSA DOC. Its zone is located south of Cirò and it is a wine of similar style, though not with the same fame. The mixture of grapes of this region mainly comes from the Gaglioppo and Greco nero (Black grape), with some scent of the white wine grapes Greco bianco, Malvasia bianca and Trebbiano.

Further to said DOCs, throughout Calabria there are 12 distinct IGT zones (this mark protects only the typcal origin from the geographical place). They cover the entire region. We can mention as IGT of province of Catanzaro “Valdamato”, inside the province of Cosenza “Condoleo”, “Esaro” and “Valle del Crati”. In the province of Crotone we have “Lipuda” and “Val di Neto”. The province of Reggio Calabria counts “Arghillà”, “Costa Viola”, “Locride”, “Palizzi”, “Pellaro”, and “Scilla”.

EVO Bruzio DOP: The Olive Oil

27.7.2018

Bruzio DOP (so called “Denominazione di Origina Protetta”, protected denomination) extra virgin olive oil is a genuine manufacture, coming from gastronomy deep experience of Calabrian people. The native cultivars of the provincia of Cosenza (Calabria) give raise to an olive oil with a fruity flavor, more or less intense, depending on the percentage of olives used (there are four varieties of olives: “Tondina”, “Carolea”, “Grossa di Cassano”, “Rossanese”).

This golden liquid is an extra virgin olive oil produced in four main types, each accompanied by a specific geographical mention:

  • “Fascia Pre-pollinica” (Pre-pollinic band),
  • Valle Crati,
  • Presidium of Jonian Hills,
  • Sibaritide.

Precisely, the Prepollinica Band Bruzio DOP has the following composition:

  • Tondina, not less than 50%;
  • Carolea, not more than 30%;
  • Grossa di Cassano, not more than 20%.
  • Other varieties present in the olive groves can contribute to a maximum of 25%.

The “Valle Crati” Bruzio DOP is so composed:

  • Carolea, not less than 50%;
  • Tondina, not more than 30%;
  • Rossanese or Dolce di Rossano, not more than 20%.
  • Other varieties present in the olive groves can contribute to a maximum of 20%.

The “Colline Joniche Presilane” Bruzio DOP:

  • Rossanese or Dolce di Rossano, not less than 70%.
  • Other varieties present in the olive groves can contribute to a maximum of 30%.

The Sibaritide Bruzio DOP:

  • Grossa di Cassano, not less than 70%;
  • Tondina, not more than 30%.
  • Other varieties present in the olive groves can contribute to a maximum of 30%.

 

ORIGINS

Homer called olive oil “golden liquid”. In ancient Greece, athletes ritually rubbed it all over the body. Its mystic glow illuminated the story. Olive oil was more than just food for the people of the Mediterranean: it was a medicine, an infinite
source of fascination and wonder, source of wealth and power. The branches and leaves of the olive tree, symbol of abundance, peace, have crowned the victorious in friendly games and bloody wars.

Crowns of olives and olive branches, emblems of blessing and purification, were ritually offered to the gods and to the powerful: some they were even found in the tomb of Tutankhamun.
With the expansion of the Greek colonies, the cultivation of the olive tree has reached Calabria (the “Brutium”) in the 8th century B.C.

Olive trees were planted in the entire region under the Roman Empire and, according to the historian Pliny, the our land had “excellent olive oil at reasonable prices” already in the I sec. a.C .: “The best in the Mediterranean”, he argued.

The belief that olive oil conferred strength and youth was well widespread. In antiquity it was infused with flowers and herbs to produce both medicines that cosmetics: a list was found at Mycenae he listed the aromas added to the olive oil in the preparation of the ointments.
Olive trees have a titanic resistance, a vital force that almost makes them immortal. It is not strange that Christian Catholic religion identify the oil with one of the symbol of the Holy Spirit, who is immortal.

Despite the harsh winters and the torrid summers, they continue to grow proud and strong, reaching out to the sky, bringing fruits that nourish, heal, inspire and amaze, and stones, drought, silence and solitude are their habitat.

 

PRODUCTION AREA

The area of ​​production and processing of Bruzio DOP extra virgin olive oil falls in several municipalities in the province of Cosenza, while packaging operations can be carried out throughout the province of Cosenza, in the Calabria region.

BOTANIC FEATURES

Bruzio oil is obtained from the fruits of the species Olea Europaea, varieties Tondina, Carolea, Grossa di Cassano and Rossanese, accompanied by additional geographical indications based on the area of ​​production: Fascia Prepollinica, Valle Crati, Colline Joniche Presilane, Sibaritide.

 

PRODUCTION METHOD

The olive harvest must take place from the beginning of ripening and until December 31 or January 15 depending on the variety. The milling must be done within two days of collection. Packaging is allowed within the province of Cosenza.

APPEARANCE AND TASTE

Pre-pollinic band olive oil is obtained from the Tondina varieties (at least 50%), Grossa di Cassano (up to 20%), Carolea (up to 30%).

The oil has a green color with yellow reflections, a medium fruity smell and a fruity flavor.

Valle Crati is obtained from the varieties Carolea (at least 50%), Tondina (up to 30%), Rossanese (up to 20%); it has a green to yellow color, a medium fruity aroma and a fruity flavor.

Presidium Joniche Hills Bruzio olive oil is produced from the Rossanese varieties (at least 70%); it has a golden yellow color with green reflections, a delicate fruity aroma and a fruity flavor with a sweet almond aroma.

Finally, Sibaritide is obtained from the Grossa di Cassano (at least 70%) and Tondina (up to 30%) varieties; it has a yellow color with some green reflections, a light fruity aroma and a fruity taste with a slight hint of bitterness.

ORGANOLEPTIC FEATURES

The Pre-pollinic band Bruzio DOP has:

  • Color: green with yellow reflections;
  • Smell: medium fruity;
  • Taste: fruity olive;
  • Maximum acidity: 0.70%;
  • Total polyphenols: > or = 200 p.p.m.

The Valle Crati Bruzio oil DOP:

  • Color: from green to yellow;
  • Smell: medium fruity;
  • Taste: fruity olive;
  • Maximum acidity: 0.70%;
  • Total polyphenols: > or = 200 p.p.m.

The Colline Joniche Presilane Bruzio oil DOP:

  • Color: golden yellow with green reflections;
  • Smell: delicate fruity;
  • Taste: fruity with a sensation of sweet almond;
  • Maximum acidity: 0.80%;
  • Total polyphenols:> = 150 p.p.m.

The Sibaritide Bruzio oil DOP:

  • Color: yellow with some green reflection;
  • Odor: light fruity;
  • Smell: light fruity, with a slight bitter sensation;
  • Maximum acidity: 0.70%;
  • Total polyphenols:> = 150 p.p.m.

In all cases, this extra virgin olive oil is an easily perishable food, it should be kept in a cool place away from sources of heat, light and products that give off special odors, at a temperature between 14 and 18 ° C.

It is advisable to consume it within 4-6 months of pressing, to enjoy it during the period of maximum expression of its flavor.

Bruzio DOP extra-virgin olive oil is delicately aromatic and therefore particularly suitable for dressing boiled vegetables, grilled fish and salads, as well as an ingredient for first courses of Calabrian gastronomy.

Finally, Bruzio DOP extra virgin olive oil is characterized by a maximum total acidity level that varies between 0.7 and 0.8 g per 100 g of oil and a total polyphenol level greater than or equal to 200 ppm.