Two Wines of Cosenza: Addoraca and Magliocco

5.1.2018

 

ADDORACA

An expert of southern wines shall add to his/her list a real Mediterranean treasure: “Addoraca”

It is a white Italian wine grape variety, growing in the Calabria region of southern Italy where it is blended with Coda di Volpe bianca, Malvasia bianca di Candia and Muscat blanc à Petits Grains.

The roots of Addoraca are believed to pertain to the province of Cosenza, where in local dialect the name Addoraca means “perfumed”. There, the grape has a long history of being a minor blending component in the Moscato di Saracena dessert wine.

Addoraca is today used in the production of passito-style wines, exclusively found in the province of Cosenza in Calabria where it is most notably used in the production of the straw wine Moscato di Saracena. Another name of Addoraca is Odoacra.

This wine well represents Cosenza, a province containing 155 municipalities, plus a community of Occitan language (also known as Langue d’oc, speaking in Guardia Piemontese, where this minority was formed by Vaudoi or Waldensian movement members, who moved to Cosenza to avoid religious persecution, in the 13th and 14th centuries). The wine has a long history, as this town of origin, Cosenza.

 

MAGLIOCCO DOLCE 

Magliocco Dolce is another great wine coming originally from the area of Cosenza. Also known as Marsigliana nera, it is a red Italian wine grape variety that is grown mostly in the Calabria region of southern Italy, but its origins are on the La Sila plateau, where Magliocco Dolce may have originated.

A land near the lake “Lago Arvo” in the province of Cosenza gave raise to “Magliocco” grape and experts  believe that the name Magliocco means “tender knot” in Greek.

Therefore, potentially Magliocco Dolce (or Magliocco Canino) could have originated in Greece.  The connection with the lake “Arvo” is due to another name of this wine “Arvino”.

Nowadays, Magliocco is confounded with Gaglioppo or with Magliocco Canino, with Castiglione (particularly around Locride), Nerello Mascalese (in Sicily) and Nocera. Now its vineyard can be found in northern and western Calabria in the provinces of Catanzaro, Cosenza and Crotone.

Sometimes Magliocco Dolce has also other names: Gaddrica, Greco nero, Guarnaccia nera, Lacrima Cristi nera, Magliocco Tondo, Maglioccuni, Mangiaguerra, Nera di Scilla and Petroniere.

 

BRIEF NOTES ABOUT COSENZA

Cosenza began as a settlement of the Italic Bruttii tribe, and became their capital before the Romans invaded the area. The town was also conquered by the Romans in 204 BCE and was named “Cosentia”, then it was invaded by the Visigoths, by Byzantines and Lombards.

The city escaped the devastation of Lombards and Saracens, then by the first half of the eleventh century Calabria became a feudal dukedom of the Normans, with Cosenza as capital.

Afterwards, the Emperor Frederick II promoted the town, which grew until 1432 when King Louis III of Anjou settled in the castle of Cosenza with his wife Margaret of Savoy.

Since that time Cosenza knew a long list of military occupations. The Spanish army conquered it in 1500 and in 1707 the Austrians succeeded the Spanish in the Kingdom of Naples, followed by the Bourbons. From 1806 to 1815 Cosenza was subject to French domination and in 1860 Garibaldi’s troops added Cosenza to the new Kingdom of Italy.

Special Calabrian Salami: “Soppressata di Decollatura”

10.7.2018

PERFECT SEASONING: THE DROP FROM A SLICE

If you want to taste a natural and authentic Mediterranea food, then “soppressata di Decollatura” is your choice.

It is a typical salami of the Calabrian plateau, called “Pre-Sila”, and is produced in the municipality of Decollatura (inside the territory of Catanzaro). This soppressata owes its prestige, above all, to the quality of native pigs, reared in the house with leftovers from the kitchen, acorns and bran. Further, the meat processing and maturing process accurately reflects the centuries-old traditions of Decollatura. So that you can justly say that Calabrian culture and cuisine mix together inside this special salami.

The meats, that are used for the preparation of “soppressata”, are the lean ones of the thighs and the fillets, mixed with the fat of the neck. The mixture of meat is then salted and mixed with sauce and peppers sauces. Then, the meat, so prepared, is  stuffed into the intestines. Finally, a typical characteristic of “soppressata” is the drop that comes out from the first cut, which indicates the perfect seasoning and quality.

This salami must be eaten raw and used as an appetizer. It must be cut into thin slices and accompanied by a local red wine, for example Donnici DOC, Melissa or Lamezia.

 

SLOW FOOD LOCAL COMMUNITY

At the end of June 2013 the first feast of the Decollatura’s Soppressata was held (of course…in the town of Decollatura).

Further, a local community of producers founded in Decollatura the so called “Accademia della Soppressata”. This institution, coming from an original idea of  mr. Ennio Bonacci, has the purpose to spread and keep alive the tradition of this Salami of Decollatura.

It is needless to remember that at Decollatura “soppressata” is produced by almost all families for self-consumption and by many farmers for direct sales. Therefore, the municipality of Decollatura, the Mountain Community and the Slow Food association have decided to set up a producers association of the… “Soppressata di Decollatura”.