The ship that was supposed to take Mr. Jefferson, an American, from Panama to the port of Genoa began to take water in the middle of the Mediterranean. Within minutes he was sucked into the bottom with his load of bottles filled with sugarcane distillate.
The captain, along with Roger and Gil, two crewmen, driven by the currents, managed to reach the shore.
It was 1871 and the three American shipwrecked men were overthrown by the waves on the Tyrrhenian coast of Cosenza, Calabria, between Fiumefreddo and Fuscaldo.
Escaped from danger, they entered the inland areas, perhaps crossing Serra di Cecio and the summit of Cozzo Cervello, then down to the Valle del Crati, towards the houses.
GIOCONDO AND THE OLD CUSTOMS WAREHOUSE
Between Montalto Uffugo and Torano, in the Ziribba area, Raffaele Trombino, known as “u Giocondo”, managed the Old customs warehouse.
Three small buildings, one used as a dwelling, one for sale, the other for sale.
Jefferson, Roger and Gil found hospitality there: they settled in that warehouse (in dialect “s’accasarano”), working for Giocondo who traded in spices and in the dark, in a secret room, prepared liqueurs with cedar and bergamot.
Jefferson called this place the Perfumery. They set off together with Giocondo before dawn, with the cart and the empty baskets.
Four or five hours journey to reach the citrus groves, to the south the “Bergamotto Fantastico” plantations, to the north those of the “Cedri Diamante”.
JEFFERSON, THE BEST LIQUEUR IN THE WORLD
Little is known of what happened next.
Of men who left for other continents and never returned. Of women left, in America, to wait for the raising children and then emigrated to Germany. Of grandchildren that one piece at a time have re-established ties with the descendants of Mr. Jefferson and rebuilt a beautiful story. Even painful.
But what everyone now knows is that Jefferson’s bitter liqueur is the best liqueur on the planet, coming from Calabria!
And also the best herbal liqueur in the categories of the World’s Drink Awards: in London, a few weeks ago, in 2019, it twice won the highest podium in the international contest that selects and rewards the best spirits in the world: “Great aroma, Bitter at the beginning, that passes. Soft and smooth and very well balanced with a herbal finish “.
Jefferson – Important bitter liqueur – is a mix of fresh botanical herbs, harvested in bloom and processed as it used to be: rosemary from Montalto Uffugo, oregan from Palombara (near Paola), lemons from Rocca Imperiale, oranges, bitter and sweet, and grapefruit from Bisignano, Roccella Ionica bergamot, the Sila gentian. All ineffable essences of Calabria.
AN OLD CUSTOMS WAREHOUSE
But who is the alchemist of the Old Customs Warehouse today? Who recovered the knowledge and secrets of “u Giocondo”?
Thick black beard, curled mustache, 20s bowler and a great desire to tell each other, amid moving and amusing anecdotes: Ivano Trombino is the author of Jefferson’s perfect recipe.
And not only. He spent seven years reconstructing the history of his family (while working as a liqueur representative for the Caribbean Company) experimenting with blends, between a flowering and another of his botanicals.
Now he is cultivating them in a large garden in Montalto Uffugo, in the province of Cosenza, where he has completely reconstructed the Old customs warehouse: a studio, a spice room, another one for infusions. He entrusted the care of citrus fruits to his father Francesco. “Let’s also say that it will be a contemporary place where promoting the culture of drinking and receiving visits from all over the world”, announces Trombino.
His company with its products (bottled near Cuneo, in the ancient Quaglia distillery) has an international niche target, connoisseurs between 30 and 70 years old.
ROGER AND GIL
And next to Jefferson’s liqueur (“Natural and authentic bitter liqueur, like Calabria”, of which there is also the Extra Strong mother tincture, in the pharmaceutical bottle with dropper), there are “Roger’s bitter liqueur“, Bitter Extra Strong (“Keep Under Bench”, “Turbid from birth “Is indicated on the label) and “Gil“, a Gin distilled with rural production method, using Juniper and Lemons of Rocca Imperiale (protected under so called IGP mark).
Together they recall the legendary past of the three American castaways.
Frack’s recipe is secret: is the result of three blends prepared from separate infusions, processed with fresh herbs (2 parts of amaricante and 1 vinous).
From Campotenese you can have a trip in three directions (following the sequence we suggest):
WEST ROUTE
A very fragrant private Park of the Loricata Lavender (5 minutes from Campotenese)
A look at the Campotenese plain [site of a famous Napoleonic battle of 1806]
Mormanno (20 minutes away), a delightful and old village (with a beautiful votive war memorial and very hospitable people).
So called Caves of “Romito” (40 minutes from Campotenese, a suggestive karst and dolomite cave, home to an ancient graffiti of a prehistoric ox, dated 12,000 years ago, the first example of art and writing, of ancient populations, certainly Homo Sapiens Sapiens)
Sanctuary of Santa Maria Di Costantinopoli (Papasidero, 15 minutes from the Caves above).
NORTH PATH: THE PARK
(it is possible to travel by car to the points programmed below)
Malvento Belvedere (20 minutes from Campotenese)
“Impiso” Hill (stop at the beautiful Fasanello Refuge, after a drive through the forest, in some places so obscure as to must turn on the car headlights in daylight. At the Refuge, sip a coffee or a drink, looking at the wonderful foreshortening in the Pollino mountains that can be seen from the rest area, near cattle and horse pastures).
EAST PATH
Morano Calabro (go to the top of the village, you will find a Norman Swabian castle that can be visited and is panoramic), 13 minutes from Campotenese, also visit the Collegiate Church of La Maddalena, then enjoy a Gelato in Piazza della Maddalena or buy from a local grocer a “Felciata” cheese (a fresh and spreadable cheese, preserved in fern rolls and flavored by this plants).
After Morano in 15 minutes you reach and visit the Aragonese Castle of Castrovillari (main center of the area)
Civita (a community of Albanians, present here since 5-6 centuries will welcome you with their typical craft).
To complement these routes, some naturalistic
and historical-religious notes as follow….
NATURE: PARK FAUNA
In general the territory is inhabited by a heterogeneous fauna where there are elements of warm weather fauna, temperate weather fauna and cold weather fauna. Among the predatory mammals, the Wolf appears in the first place and is present in the Park with few exemplars. Difficult to meet, you can see its footprints in the snow.
The Roe deer instead is a species that dwells in the Pollino with about 50 specimens and is one of the native species of the Southern Apennines.
Between the end of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth century, the cutting of the woods decimated the Roesdeer and make extinct the Deer.
The Otter is the rarest mammal in the Park and is linked to aquatic environments such as the Lao river, the Argentino river and the Peschiera stream.
The Otter is the rarest mammal in the Park and is linked to aquatic environments such as the Lao river, the Argentino river and the Peschiera stream.
The Fox is instead an animal that easily crosses along the roads or along the paths and is a very widespread species like also the Hedgehog, while the Badger and the Porcupine even if widespread are difficult to see. In the meadows and at high altitude there are the Hare, the Beech marten, the Weasel, the Dormouse, and the very rare Calabrian Forest dormouse.
The Squirrel that has had a good reproduction in recent years is easy to find in the forests of Beech tree, Fir and in the reforestation pine forests.
NATURE: FLOWERS AND
OFFICINAL HERBS OF THE PARK
The Pollino Park enjoys the variability of some
environmental factors and this allows the development of different plant
species. The Mediterranean maquis,
above all present in the warmer areas, is mainly composed of Laurel, Cistus
female, Arbutus, Erica, Phillyrea, lentiscus and Rosemary.
At high altitudes there are mainly Oak, Chestnut, Maple and Hornbeam Trees. At 1,200 meters, beech dominates, which is the most widespread plant in the Park and there are different types depending on the height. On some slopes there is a mixture of Beech and Silver Fir. Between 900 and 1850 meters or even at lower altitudes there are special beech associations. In a small clearing on the edge of the Acquafredda plain, a group of beech trees offers a spectacle that really leaves tourists stunned. In time, a group of these trees took on a twisted shape, so much so that they are called “snake trees“.
Among the tree species are the Black Pine, the Badger, the Holly, and
the Maple.
The Silver
Fir, on the other hand, grows only in certain points on the massif,
especially in the northern slope, in the Bosco Iannace.
The majestic Pinus heldreichii (“Loricato“, meaning “armored”), witness of the geological history (it can lives more the 1,000 years) of the Park is a precious Balkan element. This Pinus is the most important species of the Pollino Park an important presence is found above all in the Orsomarso mountains, on the Alps, and on the La Spina mountain, and is the symbol of the Park. The Pine, so called “Loricato”, lives above the vegetation belt, has a very slow growth and adapts to any weather condition. Its bark is characterized by large polygonal-shaped gray-ash plates that almost resemble an armor, hence the Italian name ‘Loricato’.
Below one thousand meters we find Neapolitan Alder, Lobel Maple, White Hornbeam and Black Hornbeam.
In the Bosco Mascagnano it is possible to
admire an interesting association of Turkey
Oak, Beech And Black Hornbeam.
Along the rivers are the Black Poplar and the Black Alder,
and among the herbaceous essences the Maidenhair.
At low altitude there are meadows and woods and essences typical of the Mediterranean vegetation. The High Trunk Woods and Coppice Woods are distributed in various ways and the meadows offer numerous species of flowers and medicinal herbs.
The undergrowth is full of spontaneous fruits that are used for the preparation of jams,
liqueurs, sweets and are also found in some Mediterranean dishes. Among the
fruits we find wild Strawberries,
Raspberries, Blackberries and Juniper
Berries.
In spring the flowers offer an indescribable spectacle. The Park’s main flowers include the Gentian, the Narcisio, the Peony, the splendid Pollanulas of the Pollino, the Viola, the Orchid sambucina, and other types of Orchids. There is no shortage of Polmonaria, and Sassifraga and among the rarest species, the Pusatilla Alpina and the Gallium.
Over the centuries, medicinal plants have helped the human being in various therapies that benefit the human body. Pollino park can be considered the ideal environment for the growth of medicinal plants. The Park is full of officinal herbs that grow spontaneously at high altitude.
These plants offer a sublime spectacle by virtue of their blooms of varied colors and release an intense perfume in the air. The most common officinal essences are: the Dill, the Absinthe, the Burdock, the Belladonna, the Borraggine, the Chamomile, the Wild Carrot, the Ivy, the Gramigna, the Nettle, the Cardo Mariano, the Carlina, the Coda Cavallina, the Farfana, the Genzianella, the Lavender, the Mallow, the Mint, the Oregano, the Butcher’s Broom, the Rosa Canina, the Salvia, the Saponaria, the Thyme and last but not the minor the Mullein.
RELIGION AND HISTORY
IN THE PARK
-Sanctuary of the
Madonna del Pollino in San Severino Lucano
The Sanctuary of the Madonna del Pollino is
located precisely in Mezzana a fraction of San Severino Lucano (Pz). On the
northern slope of the Pollino massif, at 1537 meters above sea level, stands
the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Pollino. From 1975 it is possible to reach the
place of worship through a comfortable driveway.
– Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Armi in Cerchiara di Calabria
The Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Armi is located near Cerchiaria di Calabria (Cs), on the slopes of Mount Sellaro, also known as Monte Santo (1015 m asl). The place enjoys a sublime panoramic view that embraces the plain of Sibari and the Gulf of Taranto.
– Sanctuary of the
Chapels in Laino Borgo
The Sanctuary of the Chapels or also called Sanctuary of the Holy Sepulcher or of Maria Santissima dello Splendore was built 2 km away from the town of Laino Borgo (Cs) surrounded by a suggestive and uncontaminated landscape from where it is possible to admire the splendid panorama they offer the Pollino mountains.
– Sanctuary of Santa
Maria di Costantinopoli by Papasidero
Papasidero (Cs) is an ancient village in the Lao Valley, located under the southern slopes of Monte Ciagola. This territory has been inhabited since prehistoric times and during the High Middle Ages it was one of the epicenters of the Mercurion area where the Basilian monks had found dwelling and always looking for solitary places.
– Laino Castle and Old
Town
Laino Castello (Cs), stands on a rocky rise at 270 meters above sea level, and is surrounded by the Lao river. It is not easy to establish the exact origin of Laino Castello but what is certain is that in 1811 Laino Castello was separated from Laino Borgo. A separation that lasted until 1928 when became two municipalities.
– Castle of Valsinni
The historical part of the ancient village of Valsinni is concentrated around the homonymous castle. This area is very suggestive because it is made up of old buildings, including the Mother Church, S. Maria Assunta, and they are placed next to each other and separated by narrow streets that climb up the sides of the rocky buttress on which it rises.
– Aragonese Castle of
Castrovillari
In the fifteenth century the Aragonese had taken possession of the throne of Naples and were worried about both the internal revolts in Calabria and the assaults of pirates along the coasts of the kingdom they had begun to protect themselves by building fortresses and castles.
– Caves of so called
“Romito” (Romito in Italian designates a hermit)
An ancient graffiti of a PrehistoricOx (12,000
years B.C.) and remains of ancient populations welcome you at the end of a long
series of switchbacks within a fantastic valley of karstic origin, between
mountains, frightening crags and gentle meadows.
Here you can watch this graffiti to a remember that mankind was present, in Calabria, since the time that the unknown prehistoric precursor and ancestor of Michelangelo, sculpted, 12,000 years ago, an Ox with technique that today we would say of bas-relief and, moreover in perspective (seen from the side) !!!
The ox is of an extinct species, among other
things, but for the human culture it still lives and throbs in the stone (than
you can easily watch in the cave), as well as the hand that carved it, which,
though disappeared, tells us how important it is Calabria for mankind!
It is quite the same kind of Ox of Cave of
Altamira in Spain and the Lascaux caves in France…