A Greek passito wine: Greco di Bianco

24.1.2018

This magnificent wine comes from the zone of Bianco, a little town on the Ionian coast, in Calabria, in front of a sparkling sea with an intense blue color, but also from a larger area covering the villages of Bovalino, Africo and generally the Ionian coast, the southern part towards Reggio Calabria, even further south from Locri and Gerace.

Effectively, Greco di Bianco is the term that indicates the typical grape variety of the coastal strip of Reggio Calabria on the Ionian side in the municipality of Bianco (RC), and there the homonymous DOC wine is protected.

However, DOC protection allows production in the same province of Reggio di Calabria and in the neighboring municipalities.

The variety of Greco is also used in two other DOCs of southern Italy, namely Greco of Gravina, in Basilicata, and Greco di Tufo, in Campania.

 

HISTORY OF A GREEK WINE

The name of “Greco di Bianco” easily recalls the Greek origin of the vine. Greco di Bianco is considered the oldest wine in Italy together with “Moscato di Siracusa”.

The wine is obtained from the white Greek vine, poor in fruit and originating from Greece, from where it was imported around the VIII century a. C. Precisely, when the Greeks landed at the promontory Zefirio (today called Capo Bruzzano).

The antiquity of the wine is confirmed by a legend, according to which a force of 10,000 Locrians took sufficient strength and courage from copious draughts of the local wine to defeat an army of 130,000 men from Croton in 560 BC. Further, the myth talks of such wonderful nectar. The mythological tradition gives credit to divine as well as enological assistance, for Castor and Pollux were said to have been sent by Apollo to fight at the side of the Locrians.

In 1966 the Greco di Bianco reached a very low level of production, which is why any local agricultural cooperatives were founded in Bianco, with the aim of enhancing and standardizing its production. The success was reached in 1980, when Greco di Bianco received the DOC brand protection.

Greco di Bianco, created as a DOC title in 1980, is now one of very few Calabrian DOC white wines and outstanding dessert wines.

 

THE LAND OF THE WINE

The plant found in the land of Bianco any climatic conditions similar to those of origin. The vineyards in front of the sea capture at the most light and heat. The production begins with the drying phase of the grapes, when the wine absorbs minerals and fragrant substances.

The bunch of the Greco B. di Bianco vine is long, loose, and can reach a maximum length of 60 centimeters. The berries are small and round, very developed grape seeds and, therefore, with little pulp and very thin skin.

The most used breeding system is the bilateral horizontal spur cord. The shoots reach up to 7 meters in length and are adorned with lobate leaves, shiny on the upper page, typical of these vines. Another system of breeding, now practiced only on old vineyards, is the tree.

The vine has an average yield of fresh grapes of about 100 q / ha. Before being squeezed, the grapes are dried on reeds until a minimum reduction of 35% is recorded.

THE FEATURES

Greco di Bianco is a must of Mediterranean and Calabrian wine production. This wine, made from Greco grapes and produced in the seaside resort of Bianco in southeastern Calabria, is also known as Greco di Gerace, given that the latter is near. Nevertheless, Greco di Bianco is arguably the most interesting wine style produced in Calabria, southern Italy.

It is a copper-hued dessert wine, made from partially dried grapes, and stands out from Calabria’s other wines, most of which are dry, often over-alcoholic table wines with little to distinguish them.

Greco di Bianco is produced as a passito-style wine, meaning that the grapes are partially dried before they are pressed and fermented. This process concentrates the natural sugars, and increases the potential alcohol level of the must to 17% or more.

Therefore, Greco di Bianco is considered one of the rarest-of Italian dessert wines, with its unique amber color, coming from the high levels of phenolic development in the over-ripe grapes.

It is luscious, rich and velvety in texture; it exhibits an aromatic bouquet reminiscent of orange flowers, citrus fruit and underlying herbal notes that become more accentuated with age. Further, its straw-yellow color with amber reflections, has ethereal scent, flavor tending to liqueur, alcoholic smell, and characteristics of a soft, warm, harmonious and persistent taste.

The olfactory impact has sweet notes of apricot, orange blossom, honey and candied orange.

Conclusively, it is an excellent meditation wine, well suited to desserts with dried fruit, creams, jams, pastries, Sicilian cassata, fruit, biscuits and spicy hard cheeses.

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Gaglioppo: The most original Calabrian Grape

24.9.2018

 

HISTORY

“Gaglioppo” grape represents a small historical heritage of the territory of the Ionian coast, for some years the subject of a work of experimentation and research to obtain better grapes and better vines. Nowadays, Gaglioppo is the typical red grape variety of the Cirò area.

Calabria has a thousand-year tradition in the field of viticulture and even today the landscape of many coastal areas is designed by vineyards, which occupy the space escaping toward the  blue horizon of the sea. The first Greek navigators, moved by the spirit of adventure and the search for new business opportunities, landed in these lands around the eighth century BC.

In that time, the indigenous peoples began the process of domestication of the wild vine and the exchanges with the Greek colonizers, making Magna Graecia a region famous for viticulture. So that, the term Enotria (land of wine) with which the Greeks identified a good part of southern Italy, confirms the ancient vine-growing vocation of a territory stretched out towards the sea and a natural crossroads of encounters and contaminations between peoples and civilizations from all over the Mediterranean.

We do not know with certainty which vines were produced in our antiquity such as, in Greek,the amineo, the thurino, the byblinos, the lagaritano, the reghinon, but we can conjecture that these were the ancestors of the actual vines of our South, even if such cultivars have disappeared today.

However, it is worth mentioning to the Calabrian winemakers of having been able to preserve an extraordinary patrimony of autochthonous varieties, still today at the base of the most famous vines of the Region. The international vines arrived late and have affected, only marginally, a production that has its roots in the ancient history of the territory.

Gaglioppo is mainly present in the hilly area of ​​Cirò, located north of Crotone, along the Ionian coast. Thanks to a Mediterranean climate, warm and ventilated, and clay-limestone soil, particularly suited for quality viticulture, Gaglioppo has found its ideal habitat in this area.

 

NATURE OF THE GRAPE

Gaglioppo is a vine of good vigor and productivity, with a rather long vegetative cycle and a medium-late maturation. It produces bunches with a conical shape, with a notable morphological variety among the various biotypes. The berries are small, with a fairly thick and pruinose, black-purple skin.

For many years many researches  have been undertaken to select the best clovers of gaglioppo, with the final aim of raising the quality of the vines.

Many companies have always believed in the potential of the vine and have pursued a project to enhance the Gaglioppo. The research started with a mass selection of old trees in the Cirò area, chosen according to the presence of small bunches and berries, tendentially sparse, suitable for producing with low yields.

The material was then re-implanted in experimental vineyards, with the aim of isolating the best clones. This initial project was accompanied by the creation of an experimental field of seed plants, with the aim of observing the genetic variability of the cultivar and selecting the best biotypes.

Finally, Gaglioppo and the ancient native vines have been studied through DNA, grape and micro-vinification analyzes.  The road to a progressive qualitative improvement of the material in the vineyard has been traced and will bear fruit in the future.

As for the forms of breeding, still today the traditional Greek tree is favorite, a tree which covers about 70% of the gaglioppo vineyard area. Handled with short pruning and high plant density, the sapling ensures high quality grapes and adapts perfectly to the climate of the territory.