The Pollino Park: Wonderful!

1.9.2019

From Campotenese you can have a trip in three directions (following the sequence we suggest):

Pollino Plateau: Campotenese

WEST ROUTE

  • A very fragrant private Park of the Loricata Lavender (5 minutes from Campotenese)
Pollino’s Lavander
  • A look at the Campotenese plain [site of a famous Napoleonic battle of 1806]
  • Mormanno (20 minutes away), a delightful and old village (with a beautiful votive war memorial and very hospitable people).
Mormanno
  • So called Caves of “Romito” (40 minutes from Campotenese, a suggestive karst and dolomite cave, home to an ancient graffiti of a prehistoric ox, dated 12,000 years ago, the first example of art and writing, of ancient populations, certainly Homo Sapiens Sapiens)
Caves of Romito
  • Sanctuary of Santa Maria Di Costantinopoli (Papasidero, 15 minutes from the Caves above).
S. Maria di Costantinopoli Church

NORTH PATH: THE PARK (it is possible to travel by car to the points programmed below)

  • Malvento Belvedere (20 minutes from Campotenese)
Landscape from Malvento site
  • “Impiso” Hill (stop at the beautiful Fasanello Refuge, after a drive through the forest, in some places so obscure as to must turn on the car headlights in daylight. At the Refuge, sip a coffee or a drink, looking at the wonderful foreshortening in the Pollino mountains that can be seen from the rest area, near cattle and horse pastures).

EAST PATH

  • Morano Calabro (go to the top of the village, you will find a Norman Swabian castle that can be visited and is panoramic), 13 minutes from Campotenese, also visit the Collegiate Church of La Maddalena, then enjoy a Gelato in Piazza della Maddalena or buy from a local grocer a “Felciata” cheese (a fresh and spreadable cheese, preserved in fern rolls and flavored by this plants).
Morano
  • After Morano in 15 minutes you reach and visit the Aragonese Castle of Castrovillari (main center of the area)
Aragonese Castle in Castrovillari
  • Civita (a community of Albanians, present here since 5-6 centuries will welcome you with their typical craft).

To complement these routes, some naturalistic and historical-religious notes as follow….

NATURE: PARK FAUNA

In general the territory is inhabited by a heterogeneous fauna where there are elements of warm weather fauna, temperate weather fauna and cold weather fauna. Among the predatory mammals, the Wolf appears in the first place and is present in the Park with few exemplars. Difficult to meet, you can see its footprints in the snow.

Pollino’s Wolf

The Roe deer instead is a species that dwells in the Pollino with about 50 specimens and is one of the native species of the Southern Apennines.

Pollino’s roe deer

Between the end of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth century, the cutting of the woods decimated the Roes deer and make extinct the Deer.

The Otter is the rarest mammal in the Park and is linked to aquatic environments such as the Lao river, the Argentino river and the Peschiera stream.

Pollino’s deer (extinct)

The Otter is the rarest mammal in the Park and is linked to aquatic environments such as the Lao river, the Argentino river and the Peschiera stream.

Pollino’s Fox

The Fox is instead an animal that easily crosses along the roads or along the paths and is a very widespread species like also the Hedgehog, while the Badger and the Porcupine even if widespread are difficult to see. In the meadows and at high altitude there are the Hare, the Beech marten, the Weasel, the Dormouse, and the very rare Calabrian Forest dormouse.

The Squirrel that has had a good reproduction in recent years is easy to find in the forests of Beech tree, Fir and in the reforestation pine forests.

Pollino’s Black Squirrel

NATURE: FLOWERS AND OFFICINAL HERBS OF THE PARK

The Pollino Park enjoys the variability of some environmental factors and this allows the development of different plant species. The Mediterranean maquis, above all present in the warmer areas, is mainly composed of Laurel, Cistus female, Arbutus, Erica, Phillyrea, lentiscus and Rosemary.

At high altitudes there are mainly Oak, Chestnut, Maple and Hornbeam Trees. At 1,200 meters, beech dominates, which is the most widespread plant in the Park and there are different types depending on the height. On some slopes there is a mixture of Beech and Silver Fir. Between 900 and 1850 meters or even at lower altitudes there are special beech associations. In a small clearing on the edge of the Acquafredda plain, a group of beech trees offers a spectacle that really leaves tourists stunned. In time, a group of these trees took on a twisted shape, so much so that they are called “snake trees“.

Oak in Pollino Park

Among the tree species are the Black Pine, the Badger, the Holly, and the Maple.

The Silver Fir, on the other hand, grows only in certain points on the massif, especially in the northern slope, in the Bosco Iannace.

The majestic Pinus heldreichii (“Loricato“, meaning “armored”), witness of the geological history (it can lives more the 1,000 years) of the Park is a precious Balkan element. This Pinus is the most important species of the Pollino Park an important presence is found above all in the Orsomarso mountains, on the Alps, and on the La Spina mountain, and is the symbol of the Park. The Pine, so called “Loricato”, lives above the vegetation belt, has a very slow growth and adapts to any weather condition. Its bark is characterized by large polygonal-shaped gray-ash plates that almost resemble an armor, hence the Italian name ‘Loricato’.

Pine Loricato

Below one thousand meters we find Neapolitan Alder, Lobel Maple, White Hornbeam and Black Hornbeam.

In the Bosco Mascagnano it is possible to admire an interesting association of Turkey Oak, Beech And Black Hornbeam.

Along the rivers are the Black Poplar and the Black Alder, and among the herbaceous essences the Maidenhair.

At low altitude there are meadows and woods and essences typical of the Mediterranean vegetation. The High Trunk Woods and Coppice Woods are distributed in various ways and the meadows offer numerous species of flowers and medicinal herbs.

Berries of Pollino Park

The undergrowth is full of spontaneous fruits that are used for the preparation of jams, liqueurs, sweets and are also found in some Mediterranean dishes. Among the fruits we find wild Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries and Juniper Berries.

In spring the flowers offer an indescribable spectacle. The Park’s main flowers include the Gentian, the Narcisio, the Peony, the splendid Pollanulas of the Pollino, the Viola, the Orchid sambucina, and other types of Orchids. There is no shortage of Polmonaria, and Sassifraga and among the rarest species, the Pusatilla Alpina and the Gallium.

Over the centuries, medicinal plants have helped the human being in various therapies that benefit the human body. Pollino park can be considered the ideal environment for the growth of medicinal plants. The Park is full of officinal herbs that grow spontaneously at high altitude.

Pollino’s Narciso

These plants offer a sublime spectacle by virtue of their blooms of varied colors and release an intense perfume in the air. The most common officinal essences are: the Dill, the Absinthe, the Burdock, the Belladonna, the Borraggine, the Chamomile, the Wild Carrot, the Ivy, the Gramigna, the Nettle, the Cardo Mariano, the Carlina, the Coda Cavallina, the Farfana, the Genzianella, the Lavender, the Mallow, the Mint, the Oregano, the Butcher’s Broom, the Rosa Canina, the Salvia, the Saponaria, the Thyme and last but not the minor the Mullein.

RELIGION AND HISTORY IN THE PARK

-Sanctuary of the Madonna del Pollino in San Severino Lucano

The Sanctuary of the Madonna del Pollino is located precisely in Mezzana a fraction of San Severino Lucano (Pz). On the northern slope of the Pollino massif, at 1537 meters above sea level, stands the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Pollino. From 1975 it is possible to reach the place of worship through a comfortable driveway.

– Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Armi in Cerchiara di Calabria

The Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Armi is located near Cerchiaria di Calabria (Cs), on the slopes of Mount Sellaro, also known as Monte Santo (1015 m asl). The place enjoys a sublime panoramic view that embraces the plain of Sibari and the Gulf of Taranto.

Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Armi

– Sanctuary of the Chapels in Laino Borgo

The Sanctuary of the Chapels or also called Sanctuary of the Holy Sepulcher or of Maria Santissima dello Splendore was built 2 km away from the town of Laino Borgo (Cs) surrounded by a suggestive and uncontaminated landscape from where it is possible to admire the splendid panorama they offer the Pollino mountains.

– Sanctuary of Santa Maria di Costantinopoli by Papasidero

Papasidero (Cs) is an ancient village in the Lao Valley, located under the southern slopes of Monte Ciagola. This territory has been inhabited since prehistoric times and during the High Middle Ages it was one of the epicenters of the Mercurion area where the Basilian monks had found dwelling and always looking for solitary places.

Castle of Laino and the old town

– Laino Castle and Old Town

Laino Castello (Cs), stands on a rocky rise at 270 meters above sea level, and is surrounded by the Lao river. It is not easy to establish the exact origin of Laino Castello but what is certain is that in 1811 Laino Castello was separated from Laino Borgo. A separation that lasted until 1928 when became two municipalities.

Valsinni, the castle

– Castle of Valsinni

The historical part of the ancient village of Valsinni is concentrated around the homonymous castle. This area is very suggestive because it is made up of old buildings, including the Mother Church, S. Maria Assunta, and they are placed next to each other and separated by narrow streets that climb up the sides of the rocky buttress on which it rises.

– Aragonese Castle of Castrovillari

In the fifteenth century the Aragonese had taken possession of the throne of Naples and were worried about both the internal revolts in Calabria and the assaults of pirates along the coasts of the kingdom they had begun to protect themselves by building fortresses and castles.

An Ox of 12,000 years ago (Romito’s Michelangelo)

– Caves of so called “Romito” (Romito in Italian designates a hermit)

An ancient graffiti of a Prehistoric Ox (12,000 years B.C.) and remains of ancient populations welcome you at the end of a long series of switchbacks within a fantastic valley of karstic origin, between mountains, frightening crags and gentle meadows.

Here you can watch this graffiti to a remember that mankind was present, in Calabria, since the time that the unknown prehistoric precursor and ancestor of Michelangelo, sculpted, 12,000 years ago, an Ox with technique that today we would say of bas-relief and, moreover in perspective (seen from the side) !!!

Bos Taurus Primigenius

The ox is of an extinct species, among other things, but for the human culture it still lives and throbs in the stone (than you can easily watch in the cave), as well as the hand that carved it, which, though disappeared, tells us how important it is Calabria for mankind!

It is quite the same kind of Ox of Cave of Altamira in Spain and the Lascaux caves in France…

The Calabrian Caviar: the “Sardella” or “Rosamarina”

25.8.2019

There is a goodness inside Calabrian cuisine, the so-called “Sardella” or “Rosamarina”, it comes from a cream of pilchard, a mixture of newborn fish, which in local dialect is the “nunnata” (namely a newborn fish).

Even if the ‘nduja (a very spicy cream of salami) is the identifying product of Calabria, especially abroad, we could consider this cream of pilchard as the sister of the famous salami’s cream, but in a fish version.

The names of this caviar of newborn fish can vary, indeed this is called “rosamarina” on the Tyrrhenian Sea, while on the Ionic coast it is called “sardella”.

A fixed couple: Tropea onion + Sardella

HISTORY

It is mostly certain that that the pilchard is a revisitation of the ancient “Garum” of which the ancient Romans were delighted. This was a fish-based sauce, but less refined than the version made in Calabrian homes.

– The Garum is mentioned 20 times by Marcus Gavius Apicius (in his famous cookbook “De re coquinaria”), who was a Roman gourmet and lover of luxury, who lived sometime in the 1st century AD, during the reign of Tiberius.

Pliny the Elder in Naturalis historia (XXXI, 93 ff.) said that the best garum was the garum sociorum, made with mackerel and coming from Spain, produced by a Tunisian society of Phoenician origin, which it exported mainly to Italy. This was expensive as a perfume. There were also famous garum factories in Italy, Campania, Pompeii, Clazomene and Leptis Magna.

Soft bread (pitta) with sardella

Seneca in a letter to Lucilius (Epistulae ad Lucilium, XV, 95, 25), launching his arrows against food excesses, especially against the garum: “illud sociorum garum, pretiosam malorum piscium saniem, non credis urere salsa tabe praecordia?” (“And that sauce that comes from the provinces – is the garum sociorum of which also Pliny spoke – an expensive mess of dead fish, don’t you think that you burn your guts with its spicy rot?”).

– Describing the dinner offered by Trimalcyon in Satyricon (36, 3), Petronius describes in great detail a huge tray, in the center of which a hare in imitation of Pegasus prevails, and at the corners four statuettes of Marsyas, from whose garnets flow garum sauce and pepper on a fish placed in a canaletto supported in such a way as to seem alive and to swim in the sea.

– Finally, Martial – in Epigrammata (XI, 27, 2) – he praises a friend of his called “Flaccus” who can resist the smell emanating from a girl who drank six measures of garum. Further, in the epigram III, 77, 5 he criticizes the use of “putris allec” (putrid herring) in dishes.

Conclusively, this quick list of historical testimonies speaks a lot about our sardella, like a fantastic legacy of ancient gastronomy and returns with a pinch of nostalgia a precious tradition.

Sardella rustic puff pastries

TODAY SARDELLA

The Calabrian sardella is a delicious heritage of Mediterranean cuisine, but it is cheap and good.

Instead, the garum derived from the entrails of the fish which were treated together with a large quantity of salt (indeed, the mixture was macerated in the sun for long periods, releasing the liquamen, very similar to the current anchovy sauce) and it was expensive. Garum was a product for rich families who could afford the product by paying considerable sums, and it was used as a condiment.

THE INGREDIENTS

The main problem for the preparation of sardella, this wonderful fish cream, is to find the raw material, that is the juvenile sardines. Their fishing is regulated by very strict laws and can only be carried out between January and March, giving exception to the article 15 of the European CE 1967/2006 regulation, which prohibits this fishing.

Therefore, a good substitute is on sale, easily available: the so called ice-fish that is found, defrosted, in the fish market or, frozen, in the supermarkets. However, it is not suitable for the preparation of our sardella of pilchard, that obviously needs newborn anchovies or sardines, and has a color tending to gray as opposed to ice-fish, that is white.

RECIPE

Ingredients:

  • 1 kg of newborn pilchrad
  • 50 grams (minimum) of ground hot pepper
  • Dry wild fennel

If you want, you can add sweet ground chilli.

Preparation:

  1. Wash the newborn fish well until the water is clean.
  2. Put the fish in a container with salt and put a weight on the cap.
  3. Squeeze the fish sauce and season with the red pepper and wild fennel.
  4. Homogenize and place in glass jars with a layer of olive oil.

Use

The pilchard can be eaten purely on the bread or it can be used to flavor pasta. It is also excellent with eggs, as an omelette, or on a fried egg. Good in potato boats or in the typical “pitta”, a soft bread.

Puff pastry rustic, full of Sardella

THE PLACE

Sardella is a versatile product. The only care is eating it in small quantity because it is particularly spicy.

Crucoli (KR) is the town of this Sardella, but also Cirò Marina (KR), Cariati (CS) and Trebisacce (CS) claim paternity. Crucoli promotes this typical product with a festival that takes place continuously in the historic center since 1970, every second Sunday in August.

It is protected as Traditional Italian Agri-food Product (so called PAT). The Pat are products included in a special list, established by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food, Forestry and Tourism Policies with the collaboration of the Regions.

Considering that the ban on fishing may make it lose its production, consumption and tradition, if you come to Calabria it would be a shame not to try it!